Getting the hang of surfing

OMG yes, I am finally getting the hang of what surfing feels like. It’s just incredible! Lots of good waves and getting up on my feet without wiping out. This is soooooo much fun!
After the morning surf, Edison (my surf instructor) took me on a tour of the more advanced and famous surf beaches on the North Shore. My fave to watch was Banzai Pipeline, the home of the Pipeline Masters Surf Contest that is attended by the best and bravest surfers from all over the world. A very dangerous mix created by the shallow reefs with the swell from the ocean to generate very high breaking waves makes this an injury prone and possibly deadly spot even for very experienced big wave surfers. We also visited Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay Beach.
In the afternoon I took a stroll back to downtown Haleiwa to check out some shops and pick up more of those incredibly delicious pineapples. Best pineapples EVER!

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